Machu Picchu and its wonders

There is a reason why they call Machu Picchu one of the best places to see in the world. It is.

I had decided to go to Peru the first time I ended up in South America (in 2014, for the World Cup in Brasil). But as luck would have it, I divided my time between Brasil, Bolivia, Colombia and very briefly, Ecuador. I couldn’t visit Peru due to visa issues.

This time though, I went to Delhi specifically to apply for a visa from the Peruvian embassy there. After sorting out the issues, I got my first and most awaited visa for the trip, after a wait of more than 2 years. I was visiting Peru, Brasil, and the United States on this trip, and had to visit Delhi, Mumbai and Chennai for their visas. Talk about a weak passport!

I landed in Peru via a layover in Iguaçu falls, and soon as I touched down, I could see that Cuzco is one of the most beautiful cities in the world! So much history at every corner. During my month in Peru, I visited Arequipa, the Sacred Valley, Ollantaytambo, Machu Picchu and towns around Cuzco. The highlight of the trip was Machu Picchu, and it was a years-old dream coming true. This story is about how I managed to get to these historic ruins and my experience there. Warning – it is a long read.

If you try to book a trip to Machu Picchu online, you will end up paying more than $500 because most of the trips include adventure activities like white water rafting, zip lining, camping and the like. Many also include hikes along the original Inca Trail, but beware of such trips, because they will cover a very small portion of the Trail, and it is more of a marketing gimmick than anything else. Most of the original Inca Trail has been closed because it is too risky or is not in a good condition to hike across by amateurs.

After getting acquainted with the city and the culture, I went to local agencies to figure out how to get to Machu Picchu. I ended up booking a 3-day package for $95, which shows you how cheap it can be to get to the ruins at your own pace. A normal 2-day package is $85 and includes a night in Aguas Calientes, the entry ticket to the ruins, and transportation to and from Cuzco. My 3-day package included 2 nights in Aguas Calientes. (Do ensure that your package includes the entry ticket to Machu Picchu since they only sell limited tickets per day, and it is quite hard to get them at the entrance of the ruins).

Even after booking the trip, the thought that I was going to achieve and live one of my biggest dreams hadn’t settled in. I was staying at Wild Rover hostel, a party hostel which offered two-for-one drinks in the evening and celebrated the booking with lots of Piscola (Pisco + Coca-Cola).

The trip started with a van picking me up in the centre of Cuzco at 6 am. This van had about 6-8 passengers, and after a 7-hour drive through the mountains (with a break), it dropped me at a spot called Hidroelectrica, where one can have lunch and then proceed to hike along the train tracks to Aguas Calientes, the village at the base of Machu Picchu. This hike can take anywhere between 2-4 hours, and I took my own time to walk through because it was so scenic, and was along the Urubamba river.

After arriving in Aguas Calientes, you are given orientation on the coming day’s schedule at the ruins. Post that, you can dine at one of the many restaurants in the village, which is mostly filled with tourists.

I remember having a pizza for the evening, because it is my comfort food, and gives me joy and peace. Not the best I had, but the whole experience of an impending day of glory was surreal, and this pizza was a part of the same.

The next morning starts with waking up at 4 am so you can leave for the ruins and get to the main gate after a hike of about an hour. Most of us got there between 6 and 7 am and saw huge crowds at the gate. But don’t be intimidated by the crowds, since they have multiple gates to enter the ruins, and it takes less than 15 minutes to enter. The ruins are also huge, so the crowds disperse quite easily. A handy tip for a great souvenir – soon as you enter, you can get your passport stamped with a seal of Machu Picchu. Not a lot of people know of this, and it looks great on your passport! And yes, it is completely legal to do.

I reached the ruins before sunrise and was immediately greeted by Nando, one of the many friendly llamas who reside in the ruins. Not only did I take 100 selfies with Nando and friends, but I also saw the sun come up with them, and it was quite a sight. One of the many memories I made that evening that I can still vividly remember soon as I close my eyes. In full HD too!

I spent the first half of the day exploring the ruins, every perfectly preserved house, including the Casa del Inka, hearing the stories of rituals that took place during the time of the Inkas, and broke for lunch with the most scenic views and cultural atmosphere I’ve had in a while.

If you take the 2-day package, you have to leave the ruins by 11 am, so you can make your way back to Aguas Calientes and onwards to Hidroelectrica from where you can take the van back to Cuzco around 2 pm. I took a 3-day package just so I could spend the whole day at the ruins (they close at 5 pm), and leave for Hidroelectrica the next day at my own pace. I figured that since I am going all the way to Peru and Machu Picchu (Quechua for Older Brother), it makes sense to spend $10 more and take in the ruins for the whole day and pace the whole trip out.

Being able to spend the whole day at the ruins also allowed me to hike up to Montaña Machu Picchu (which is another 2+ hour climb from the ruins) in the second half. This mountain is at a height of 3,061 m, while the ruins are at a height of 2,430 m. You can also choose to climb the smaller Huayna Pichu (Quechua for Younger Brother) mountain, but it is overcrowded to the extent that you get to spend mere minutes at the top after climbing in a single file. If you can, avoid it. Do keep in mind that you need to mention if you’d like to climb either mountain at the time of booking because the tickets for them are separate and are also not sold at the gate.

I had the luxury of time with me, so I took a lot of breaks during the hike up to Montaña Machu Picchu, especially at spots from where I could see the ruins (as I climbed up, the ruins got smaller and smaller). And let me tell you, the views from the top are spectacular, as you can see in the image above. I had the fortune of a clear day with blue skies and cotton clouds and was able to see the Urubamba river snaking through the Andes, the ruins, and even a bit of Aguas Calientes. The joy of these unearthly views was not dampened even when a huge spider showed itself.

I can’t quite describe all my feelings from this day in words, but what I will say is that the ruins are mystical. Quite mystical. And while the sunrise, the views and the ruins themselves are spectacular, you also get to interact with llamas there, including taking selfies with them and even petting them!

A few must-visit spots at the ruins – Temple of the Sun, Intihuatana stone, Casa del Inka, the many well-preserved ruins of the individual houses inhabited by Inkas, and the step terraces which overlook the valley and the Urubamba river. If you are planning to go to Machu Picchu, I’d recommend going sooner than later, since there are rumours that they are planning to close the site and just build a pedestal from where you can see the ruins. This is because of the high footfall and the resulting damage to the ruins.